To fix a leaky faucet, shut off the water supply valves under the sink, remove the handle and inner parts, and inspect the washer, O-ring, or cartridge for wear or mineral buildup. Replacing whichever worn part is causing the leak — usually a washer or O-ring on older faucets, or the cartridge on newer ones — and reassembling everything typically stops the drip completely.
According to the EPA, a faucet dripping at just one drip per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons of water a year — enough for dozens of showers. Beyond the water bill, that constant drip is genuinely annoying. The good news is that learning how to fix a leaky faucet is one of the more approachable plumbing repairs, and most jobs take under an hour with basic tools.
Step 1: Identify Where the Leak Is Coming From
Before taking anything apart, figure out where the water is actually escaping:
- Leaking from the spout: Usually means worn internal parts — a washer, O-ring, or cartridge
- Leaking from the base or handle: Usually points to a worn seal or O-ring around the faucet body
- Leaking from under the sink: Could be a supply line connection rather than the faucet itself
Turn off one water supply valve at a time (hot, then cold) if you’re not sure which line is contributing to the leak — this can help narrow down the cause before you start disassembling anything.
Step 2: Shut Off the Water Supply
This step is non-negotiable before starting any faucet repair.
- Locate the shut-off valves under the sink and turn them clockwise until they stop
- If there are no individual valves, shut off the main water supply for the house
- Turn the faucet handle on afterward to release any remaining pressure and drain water left in the line
- Plug the drain or place a towel over it so small parts don’t fall down the sink while you work
Step 3: Identify Your Faucet Type
Knowing how to fix a leaky faucet properly starts with knowing what kind you have, since the internal mechanism differs:
- Compression (two-handle) faucets: Use a rubber washer that wears out over time — the classic old-style faucet
- Cartridge faucets: Use a cartridge to control flow; can have one or two handles
- Ball faucets: A single handle that moves over a rounded ball to control flow and temperature
- Ceramic disc faucets: Newer, durable single-handle design using two ceramic discs
Step 4: Remove the Handle
- If there’s a decorative cap or index cover, pry it off gently with a flathead screwdriver or pocketknife to expose the screw underneath
- Remove the screw with a screwdriver or hex key, depending on the faucet
- Lift or wiggle the handle off — if it’s stuck, a little penetrating oil helps loosen it without forcing anything
Step 5: Disassemble and Inspect the Internal Parts
- Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the packing nut, then lift out the stem, cartridge, or ball assembly, depending on your faucet type
- Lay all parts out in order on a flat surface, and take a quick photo for reference before you go further — this makes reassembly much easier
- Inspect the washer, O-rings, and seals for cracks, flattening, or mineral buildup. These worn components are the most common cause of a leaky faucet, and replacing them typically resolves the drip
Step 6: Replace the Worn Parts
Bring the old parts with you to the hardware store, or take a clear photo, so you can match sizes exactly — a washer or O-ring that’s even slightly the wrong size won’t seal properly and the leak will continue. Many hardware stores also sell faucet repair kits matched to specific brands, which can be simpler than sourcing individual parts.
Before reassembling, rub a small amount of plumber’s grease or petroleum jelly on new O-rings — this reduces friction, helps them seat properly, and extends how long the repair lasts.
Step 7: Reassemble the Faucet
Put everything back together in the reverse order you removed it:
- Reinstall the stem, cartridge, or ball assembly
- Tighten the packing nut — snug, but don’t overtighten, since this can damage the mechanism or make future repairs harder
- Reattach the handle and screw it into place
- Replace the decorative cap or index cover
Step 8: Turn the Water Back On and Test
Turn the shut-off valves back on slowly rather than all at once, which helps avoid a sudden pressure surge that could stress the new seal. Run the faucet on both hot and cold settings and check closely around the base, handle, and spout for any remaining drips.
If the Faucet Is Still Leaking
If you’ve replaced the obvious parts and it’s still dripping, a few less common culprits are worth checking:
- Wrong-sized replacement part: Even a slightly mismatched washer or O-ring won’t fully seal
- Misaligned cartridge: If a cartridge isn’t seated or oriented correctly, the internal ports won’t line up properly
- A scratched or pitted valve seat: A brand-new washer can’t seal well against a damaged metal seat, and this may require replacing the valve seat itself or calling a plumber
When to Call a Plumber Instead
Most drip repairs are DIY-friendly, but if you’re dealing with a valve seat replacement, a leak inside the wall, or a faucet that continues leaking after multiple attempted fixes, it’s a reasonable point to bring in a licensed plumber rather than continuing to replace parts by trial and error.
For more everyday maintenance tasks around the house, our deep cleaning checklist covers the routine upkeep that helps catch small issues like this before they become bigger ones.
FAQs About How to Fix a Leaky Faucet
What is the most common cause of a leaky faucet?
A worn-out washer or O-ring is the most common cause, especially in older compression-style faucets. Mineral buildup and general wear over time cause these small rubber components to lose their seal.
Do I need to turn off the whole house’s water to fix a leaky faucet?
Only if your sink doesn’t have individual shut-off valves underneath it. Most sinks have separate hot and cold valves that let you isolate just that faucet.
How much water does a dripping faucet actually waste?
According to the EPA, a faucet dripping once per second can waste more than 3,000 gallons of water per year — roughly the amount needed for dozens of showers.
Why is my faucet still leaking after I replaced the washer?
This usually means the replacement part was the wrong size, the cartridge is misaligned, or the valve seat itself is scratched or pitted and can’t seal properly even against a new washer.
Final Thoughts
Knowing how to fix a leaky faucet saves both money and water, and it’s a repair that rewards patience more than expertise — take a photo before disassembling, match replacement parts exactly, and reassemble carefully. Most drips come down to one worn washer or O-ring, and replacing it is a small job compared to the water it saves over a year. This is one of several basic home repairs every homeowner should know — see the full guide for more.
